The Official Surf Guide of Hawaii

The Line-Up

The line-up is critical to catching the right wave. If you can keep your line-up consistent and make small adjustments to your location, you will be more likely to find the break. To find your line-up use stationary and highly visible landmarks to position yourself with. Try to find two landmarks that are close to 90 degrees apart, one for your side-to-side movements and one for how far out you are. Currents and winds are continuous forces pushing the surfer out of position. Sometimes it is smart to stay with the group, but only if there are experienced surfers among them. If the waves are big, it's best to start your lineup outside or off to the shoulder, away from the break. To find your line-up use stationary and highly visible landmarks to position yourself with. Try to find two landmarks that are close to 90 degrees apart, one for your side-to-side movements and one for how far out you are. Currents and winds are continuous forces pushing the surfer out of position. Sometimes it is smart to stay with the group, but only if there are experienced surfers among them. If the waves are big, it's best to start your line-up outside or off to the shoulder, away from the break. This will allow you to fet a feel for the current conditions and decide if it is even safe to be out. Common landmarks used at Waikiki beach are Diamond Head, large buildings, the mountains to the west with the antenna, the twin-towers buildings to the west and certain palm trees.

Duck Dive & Turtle Roll

The cycle of catching a wave and paddling back out is what surfers live for. Getting back to the lineup is as important a skill as being able to surf. The power and consistency of breaking waves overpower many beginners - the distance traveled and energy used paddling out are wasted as you get pounded and washed back towards the shore. Because of this, maneuvering oncoming waves is key. If the wave is tiny it's usually ok to simply paddle through it or over it. Sometimes raising your upper torso with your hands firmly grabbing the rails in a 'push-up' style helps with controlling the board and minimizing the impact of the wave it it is small. The other options are the turtle roll and the duck dive.

Controlling your own board is essential to getting past breaking waves. Injuries from your own board and boards of others are far too common for surfers. When you see an oncoming wave, regardless of how you maneuver it, keep the nose of the board pointed toward the wave and your board and body perpendicular to the wave. Never bail off your board in fear or uncertainty. You might see this done in videos, but only skilled surfers know when this is safe and necessary. Besides, as a a beginner, you should never be surfing in conditions that you feel you have to bail off your board.

Positioning in the water will also help you get to the lineup. Getting caught on the inside happens to everyone but experienced surfers usually avoid it. Listen to your instructor, see what others are doing, follow channels, and try to paddle back out where the wave is not breaking. As you become a more experienced surfer finding your way back to the lineup is like finding the rhythm of a song. While paddling back out always be considerate of oncoming surfers.

As you build your surfing skills you will also learn how to duck dive and/or turtle roll. Both maneuvers take practice and can be dangerous for new surfers. The goal is to get you and your board as far beneath the wave as possible, allowing the wave to roll over you. Typically the duck dive is performed with a shortboard and the turtle roll is used if you have a longboard. The longboard is usually too buoyant and cumbersome to push under the water but some long boarders are able to duck dive. The smaller board is easier to push under the water - creating and advantage for shortboarders in bigger waves. Your first board should be a longboard and that means learning the turtle roll. Ask your instructor about tips on executing the turtle roll.

Are you Goofy or Regular?

No really! The difference between goofy-foot and regular-foot is the positioning of your feet. A goofy surfer has the right foot forward and a regular surfer has the left foot forward. Switch-foot means that you can surf both ways.

Typically, a goofy-foot surfer prefers to go left and a regular-foot surfer prefers to go right. This allows the surfer to look directly at the face of the wave (frontside) rather than looking over the shoulder (backside).

Finding your stance is part of the challenge. Practice and experience will help you find your groove. If you have participated in other board sports (snowboarding, skateboarding, etc.) you probably already know.

How To Catch A Wave

Congratulations, you have made it to the line up and are ready to catch a wave!

Sit near the shoulder of the wave; it is a better spot for beginners. If the waves are super small you could sit closer to the beak. Try to choose a wave that has not broken yet..

As the wave approaches look around for other surfers paddling for the same wave.

If other surfers are going for the same wave, wait for the next one, waves almost always come in sets and waiting for the second or third wave pays off.

When ready turn and point your surfboard toward the shore. Center your body with your feet near the back to maintain the board's momentum.

Take a deep breath and paddle as hard as you can in the direction of the shore. Continue to look left and right for other surfers.

As you start to feel the wave's energy carrying you forward, grab the rails and get ready to stand up.

After you have glided to the bottom of the wave, stand smoothly with your feet coming up under your upper torso with knees bent, focus straight ahead and use your peripheral vision so you know what's going on around you.

If you are catching a wave in the whitewater, surfing straight toward the beach is acceptable. But if you are a catching the wave at the peak where the more experienced surfers are, it is best to angle your board away from the peak approximately 30 degrees and stay with the peeling portion of the wave.

As your wave ends, slowly ease yourself back down onto your board and paddle back to the lineup by going to either the left or right of the peak or white water to avoid other surfers.

Most importantly - Have fun, be safe, respect others and share waves!!